Spain-Morrocco Bike

Dp and i tried a cycling trip in Spain and Morocco. Day 1 took us from Almeria to Laroles (106 kms, 10 hours). Nice riding along coast followed by hot afternoon and evening over some very tough hills. Day 2 we were on the road before dawn from Laroles to Granada, up over the highest pass of the trip - the Puearta de la Ragua. 4 hours of inching the bike along at snails pace, and a total of 11 hours for the day over only 103 kms. Day 3 we rested in Granada and explored the famous Allhambra.

Day 4 had us back on the road Granada to Antequera, an easier flat ride through the countryside, 100 more kms. Day 5 was through valleys and past some nice lakes and windfarms from Antequera to Ronda, 95kms and i nice ride.

Day 6 was the last in Spain, mostly downhill from Ronda to Gibralter on the coast. Explored the Rock of Gibralter.

Day 7 we hopped on a ferry for Northern Africa, landing in the spanish enclave of Cueta and biking on surprisingly great roads to Tetouen. Arrived inthe middle of a bustling Sunday Souq. Short day, only 60 kms. Day 8 was our last on the bikes, from Tetouen to Chechfhaouen. A remarkably tough day on horrible roads and with terrible traffic. 80 kms.

Patagonia

Did a week hiking and camping in the Patagonian Andes around Mt. FitzRoy and the elusive Cerro Torre.  Stunning views, though not doing any real climbing this time around:

Chantilly Falls

DP and I hiked an hour up Evan Thomas Creek at dawn to be first in the queue for Chantilly Falls (100m  WI 2).  The first pitch was steepish but straighforward, followed by medium ange up to the belay.  Second pitch got vertical for about 15m, some white knuckle moments, but good axe placements.  2 rapells down off trees to the right. 2 hours up and down - good day for the first waterfall ice in 3 years.

Kiwi Bike Tour

Day 1 (Mt John: 15 kms, 2 hours)

My first bike day in New Zealand is a local ride out and back from the town of Tekapo.  The town is on the shores of Lake Tekapo, a giant turquoise glacial lake.  A few clicks west of town (which lies at 710m) is Mt. John.  In the span of 4 kms, the narrow and windy road switch-backs up through apline meadows and sheep herds to the summit at 1050m.  Views from the top are stunning, snow capped peaks in every direction.  Takes about 1 hr to ride up, 2 minutes to spin down...

Day 2 (Wanaka-Haast: 149kms 8 hours)

Started the day in Wanaka, the start of State Highway 6, which runs up the west side of the South Island.  The first 50 kms snaked along the shores of 2 giant mountain lakes, Lake Makea and Lake Wanaka.  The next 20 passed through sheep farms and mountain valleys, before ascending to Haast Pass.  The ecosystem changes significantly over the pass, going from arid mountains to tropical rainforests.  Hairpin turns on the descent through huge valleys with waterfalls on all sides.  The remainder of the day followed a river right out to the coast, and dinner in Haast.

Day 3 (Haast-Fox Glacier: 121kms 7.5 hours)

Riding along very remote and rugged coastal scenery today, mountains coming down to meet the Tasman Sea. Lots of tight turns and wind.  Great view from Knights Point.

Day 4 (Fox Glacier-Ross: 130kms 8 hours)

Mostly in Glacier country today, rode between Fox and Franz Josef glaciers with lots of hills in between. Crossed over the steep Fox and Omarau Saddles before a rainforest ride into gold-panning country.

Day 5 (Ross-Punakaki: 108kms 7 hrs)

Uneventful flat (and windy) farmland ride for the first 65kms, thought the highlight of my day was going to be the Big Mac in Greymouth.  But the last 44km along to coast were amazing - very rugged coastal scenery, could hear the waves crashing all afternoon. 

Day 6 (Punakaki-Murchison: 101kms 6 hrs)

Riding today along the Buller River in the Buller Gorge.  Uneventful day, excpet for a punch from a passing motorist...

Day 7 (Murchison-Richmond: 112kms 8.5 hrs)

One of the toughest days ive had on a bike.  After the first hour, it started pouring and just wouldnt let up. Fought tough headwinds the whole day, crossing 2 saddles in the process - Hope Saddle and then Spooner Saddle.  Happy to get a hot shower and beer after.

Day 8 (Richmond-Picton: 127kms 8 hrs)

Excellent day as my last riding day.  The rains stayed away and the ride wound along the coast before going up over 2 passes.  The final 40 kms were along Queen Charlotte Drive with incredible views of the Queen Charlotte Sound.  Rolled into Picton at 5:30pm, just in time for the ferry to Wellington.

Mt. Cook

In New Zealand for 3 weeks for a try on Mount Cook (Aoraki).  At 3752m, its the highest mountain in the country and, depending on how Austral-asia is defined, highest on the continent.  Its located in the Southern Alps of the South Island, a stunning range with giant glaciers and steep cliffs.  Given the fact that i'd be solo, I hired a guide - Marty Schmidt - a very accomplished climber whose guided all over the world, including Everest and K2.  They allow for 6 days since the weather is so variable.  Cold winds come up over the ocean from Antarctica and usually bring snow.  Mt. Cook is only 40 kms from the ocean, so by the time the winds hit they regularly gust up to 150kph. Weather on the mountain was very poor the first couple of days, so we played golf and went rock climbing to some crags on the eastern side of the island.   

Finally the winds calmed and we flew into the Alpine Club hut at 2200m.  The hut is perched on a ridge in the center of the range, and, although we were the only ones there, is the hub for trekking and climbing in the area. We organized our gear and set out Saturday afternoon up the heavily crevassed Linda Glacier on snowshoes.  After 4 hours we set up camp at about 2800m and slept for a few hours before leaving the tent at around 1 am.  Winds were light, and the sky was filled with stars.

After roping up and crossing the rest of the Linda Glacier, we ascended/traversed steep snow slopes to a location called the Shelf.  The first section of technical climbing was up a couloir of maybe 60 degree snow/ice. 3 or 4 pitches of our 60m rope led to the start of a section called the Summit Rocks.  At that point the sun started to rise over the peaks, and i realized just how steep and exposed the route was. The rocky section was 3 or 4 rope lengths of steep mixed rock and ice - again 2 ice axes were necessary.   We rested at the top of the rocks, then head out up the Ice Dome, at first a steep ridge that dropped off 2000m to the east, then finally snow slopes to the main summit at 8 am.  In respecting local Maori beliefs, we did as all climbers and did not stand on the very highest spot.  Weather was great and winds were low - we could easily see out to the Tasman Sea to the west.

A very long descent followed - slow going down the steeps with 10 or 11 rappels.  Picking up the tent on the way, we made it back to the hut at 5 pm, all told a 16 hour day.  We were able to catch a helicopter out just ahead of a fresh storm, and and hour later were settled in the Mountaineers Pub in Mt. Cook Village for steak dinner and celebratory beers. Excellent climb, one of the toughest i've done.

Temple

GW and I decided on a climb of Mt. Temple (3553m), the highest scramble-able peak in the Canadian Rockies. Set off early and after some equipment glitches we make our way to Sentinal Pass for lunch. Higher above the pass, a narrow patch of snow takes us through the narrow rock gully that is the steepest part of the route. After clearing the yellow and grey rock bands, the summit comes into view.

Excellent views of the Valley of the Ten Peaks and Moraine Lake well below us. Perfect weather on top - bluebird day and not a breath of wind. 11 hours after starting we are back at the car, ready for a beer at the Post Hotel.

Snowdome

Ski-mountaineered up Snowdome (3452m) with Duncan this past weekend. Day 1 had us rope up on the toe of the Athabasca Glacier. Up past the end of the snowcoach road, under hanging seracs (only 1 collapsed) and up the headwall brought us to the vast Columbia Icefields. We contoured up right towards Snowdome, although the partial whiteout and lack of landmarks had us navigating mostly by GPS. We camped at 3100m on a small dug-out platform on Snowdome's southern slopes. After a windy night, we set out early from camp. Navigating again by GPS we eventually located the snow crusted measuring stick on the summit. After taking some measurements for the Candian Geographic Society, we took off the skins and flew down, needing only an hour all the way back to the foot of the glacier. Excellent trip.

Hector (Winter)

Duncan and I ski mountaineered up Mt. Hector this weekend. On skis this is a Rockies classic one day ascent without the need for a middle-of-the-night alpine start. Skinned up through trees and over avalanche debris before carrying skis for a short steep gully. Reached the glacier at mid-day and roped up for the gradual climb to the summit rocks.

Shed the skiis 150m below the summit and bootpacked the rest of the way. Some iced-over rock required crampons for a short stretch. Very low visibility on the way down, but perfect snow and great turns all the way back down to the highway.

Elbrus

Its been a 3-1/2 year hiatus for the 7 Summits. JD, Rob and Big Jon climbed Mt. Elbrus (5642m), the continental summit of Europe, back in the summer of 2005. Luckily Duncan was up for the challenge, so I did not have to go to Russia on my own. We arrive in the Baksan valley in early September. This place is a ski resort in the winter, so there are a number of Alpine style ski chalets and hotels, but with a run-down Russian feel. Azau is the name of this town, right at the foot of Mt. Elbrus. We are staying at a hotel furnished by the company that arranged for our visas, border zone registration, and climbing permits (Soviet red tape is endless).

Our first day is an acclimatization hike to neighboring Mt. Cheget. We ride a single person charlift half way up, then hike the remainder to the 3700m summit. Its a gorgeous day and we get our first views of teh volcanic mass of Elbrus, which towers above all the other peaks in the area.

The next day we are packed up and on the cable-car, which will take us all the way up to the bottom of the glacier at 3700m. We set up camp as best we can away from a mess of rusting scrap metal, dirty huts broken down snow-cats, and generally a fine mess of Russian junk. We set off in the mid-day heat for an acclimatization hike up the route. We get all the way up to the Pushtakov Rocks at 4500m before coming back down for a hot meal.

We hitch a ride up the mountain with some sight-seers on a snow-cat the next moring. Worried about a poor weather forecast for the next week, we stache the tent and decide to make our break for the summit. Its rushed, to be sure, but these weather windows can mean all the difference.

A long slow slog takes us up a steep snow slope before the route traverses left to a col between the east and west Elbrus summits. We take one of our few breaks in the day, glance at the clock, and decide that even though we are late in the day, the weather looks good so we are safe to continue. Another steep snow slope brings us to the summit plateau. A few hundred feet further and we are topped out! At only 4 days, this was one of the faster climbs. 4 down, 3 to go!

Calgary-Tofino

Set out to replicate JD's Edmonton-Vancouver bike ride from the summer of 2005, except leaving from Calgary and going out to Tofino on Vancouver Island.

Day 1- Calgary - Banff, 130kms
Day 2- Golden, 139kms
Day 3- Rest (golf in Golden)
Day 4- Revelstoke, 149kms
Day 5- Squilax, 145kms
Day 6- Rest (swim in Shuswaps)
Day 7- Cache Creek, 149kms
Day 8- Boston Bar, 129kms
Day 9- Mission, 142kms
Day 10- Horseshoe Bay, 92kms
Day 11- Sproat Lake, 88kms
Day 12- Tofino! 115kms

Lady Killer

Went to Golden this weekend. Dinner at the Moberly Mountaineer Inn and ice climbing on the itinerary. Climbed Lady Killer (Grade III), which is about 10 minute east of town along the highway. The first pitch, ice was strong for half but deteriorated into brittle chandelier type ice for the last 10m. Very exposed.

Second pitch was firm ice, in the sun...gorgeous day.

Riverside

Another ice climbing weekend in Golden, the routes here are so close to the highwway, the access is great. Under the highway bridge and along the railway tracks takes us to the base of Riverside (WI Grade III), a route with some vertical, some rolling ice. JD leads up nicely again on a colder day, then we downclimb repel off trees to the right. Icy rope today.

Assiniboine

We tried Mt. Assiniboine (3615m) in 2005, but we were'nt prepared. JD and me set off from Mt. Shark trailhead early Friday morning on September long weekend. 26km hike in to Assiniboine Lodge. We rendezvous with our climbing gear, which we had flown in via Heli, then continue around Lake Magog and the Gmoser Highway up to the Hind Hut. Set off at 2 am ahead of a few guides/clients, but are caught within a couple hours. We follow in behind. Very steep climbing in crampons over mixed rock and ice. This is some of the toughest technical climbing we've done on an Alpine climb.

By noon we are on the summit! The way down is slow. We reverse our route, sometimes downclimbing, other times rapelling where its too steep. Finally we stumble back to the Hind Hut at 6 pm....16 hour day, but very worth it. One of the best climbs we've done so far.

Andromeda

With a great weather forecast I take a weekday off work and JD and i head off for Mt. Andromeda (3450m). We sleep in the car near the snow-coach parkinglot, and are off to a midnight start over rocky moraines. The wind is up a little, and we start to lose interst, but we reach the glacier and the base of our route, the Skyladder. After roping up and crossing the bergshrund, Jr. leads up a fairly steep snowslope. The sun comes out halfway up, and the wind drops to zero - a perfect morning for climbing!We reach a plateau and traverse along the top of a ridge to the summit. Views are stunning in all directions - the Columbia Icefields, Mt. Columbia, and countelss Rockies Peaks. Not a single soul around us for miles. We work back down in a circuit, climbing to the Athabasca-Andromeda Col. A few rapels take us down stee snow slopes, and back down the the glacier below. We are back at the car by 2 pm - 14 hr day.Very good day in the Rockies.

Masseys

Slept in the back of the car in Field friday night, up early and hiked along the railroad tracks to an icefall on Mount Stephen, Masseys Curtain (Grade IV). We climbed a diagonal ice-ramp to get to mid-hieghtm, then set up a toprope to practice.After we were comfortable, JD led up to the top, one vertical pitch followed by one lower angled section.

Stanley

Here we are on Mt. Stanley for the second time. The first time around was during Game 6 of the SCF, which we didnt want to jinx by watching. We camped just below the glacier and got to the bottom of the icefall, but didnt have the energy to continue on. This time we try straight from the car, leaving at 1 am in pitch black.

By the early morning we are on the galcier and up to the bottom of the steep snow/ice wall (Kahl Route) leading straight up to the summit. JD leads off and i follow in the footsteps. The snow is in perfect condition for boot packing, which makes it less technical than if this were icy. Long long way up tho, we end up taking turns breaking trail. We reach the top and spend abotu 30 seconds taking photos before heading right back down the way we came.

Denali

JD, Rob and I have arrived in Alaska, trying for the summit of Mt. McKinley (6192m), highest peak in North America. We get a briefing of our route - the West Butress - from the park Rangers in Talkeetna, the last one-horse town on the edge of the Alaskan frontier. We load up all our gear onto the small bush planes with large skiis fixed to the wheels. Its a 45 minute flight north into the Alaskan range. We fly low and cross what seems like very close to the tips of surrounding peaks before making a right turn in for a landing on the glacier. Everyone is roped up with harnesses. 3 weeks worth of food and supplies are required, so not only do we have 45 lb pack, we also tow sleds that are tied to our waists with additional 25-30 lbs. Some ski, others snowshoe, but for all its a real slog to say the least.

First camp is 8000ft, right on the glacier. We are early in the season so we have our pick of campsites, just flatten out some snow and throw down the tent. We build walls with giant blocks of snow to reduce the effects of the wind. Second camp is 11,000 ft, which we take 2 days to reach after a gear haul. Here we meet some new faces. Some ski guides from Montana, and well as a former marine and army recruit.14,000 ft is the next stop, and is as much a basecamp as any other. There are doctors tents, latrines, and weather reports. The next section is a very steep snow slope followed by a section of ice. These are are fixed ropes. One clips in to the rop ewith an ascenter (or in our case a sliding know) and crawls up the steep slope for about 5 or 6 rope lengths. The top of the fixed ropes brings us to the 16K Ridge, which is above the clouds and climbs up through mixed rock and snow. Camp at 17,600 is a cold and windy spot, so the idea is to hit a weather window, spend one night there, get up to the summit, then come back down as qucikly as possible. Our first attempt results in failure - we come back down after a very cold and windy night, and no sign in let-up of weather. On our second try the weather is much better, though Rob decides to stay behind. We get off to a scrambly start for the summit, and after an hour i am cooked. So Jr. and Shane continue up, Sean and I back to the tents 17k Camp. Waiting anxiously all day, Jr and Shane finally come back around nightfall. They made it! Sean and I will try again tomorow, weather permitting. With instructions from Jr as to the route, Sean and I set off at 9 am, first to leaver high camp. And the weather is perfect. Cold, but not a breath of wind. Up and up we go, past landmarks - a big rock here, a weather station there, before coming out in the sunshine. Around mid-day, we are on the summit! Highest point in North America. And what a view - not a cloud in the sky and a view for miles and miles. We get back to 17k camp before sunset and crash, eager to stumple back down lower the next morning. 2 days later we are all back at the airstrip, ready for our ride back home.

Trans Rockies Ride (Part 1)

JD is biking from Edmonton to Vancouver, camping along the way. I take a long weekend and join him for a few days in the middle. We meet up at a campground in Rocky Mountain House, where I leave my car. He's taken 2 days to get here from Edmonton. Tent, sleeping bag and food are packed into paniers on the back of the bike, and its a wobbly contraption with all the extra weight. The first day takes us along steadily - always at 20km/h - up or down, straight or twisty, wind or none. We spend 5 hours in the saddle and cover over 100km. We find a great campsite at a lake past Nordegg. The second day takes us into the wind and the start of the Rockies. We have a huge lunch at Saskatchewan River Crossing, then press on to a campsite past Chephren Lake. Another 100km + day, but the weather is perfect. The thrid day its up and over what will be the highest point in the trip - the Bow Summit. We are up and pedalling early, its best at this time of day to avoid the traffic. Gorgeous morning in the Rockies!

Back down the other side takes us to Field, and the end of my weekend. I leave JD to battle the Kicking-Horse Valley wind on his own, and bus it back to my car. One day i'll come back and finish the trip...

Hector (Summer)

Climbed Mt. Hector (3394m) last weekend. This was one of the first Alpine climbs in the Rockies where we have made the summit on our first try. Also one of the first we havent had to start in the middle of the night. 7 am start takes us from the Icefields Parkway up a riverbed and headwall to the upper valley. After a few hours and a granola bar breakfast we are on the glacier, which is low angled. Visibility is poor at times, but we just point in the direction of the summit.

President

For the third time in 13 days we are trying for Mt. President (3225m). Each time we have slept in the Emerald Lake parking lot. The first attempt was in pouring rain. Just below the glacier we try up a steep gully, but falling rocks from a large cliff face overhead pour onto us, sending us running for cover. The second attempt, this time with helmets, and Big Jon is along. We gain the galcier this time, but in whiteout conditions we hear what sounds like an airplane passing overhead. Turns out to be an avalanche not far off our intended route, again caused by wet unstable conditions. Finally we are back up on the glacier for the third time, this time in stabler weather. We gain the President-Vice Presidednt col, then I follow JD up towards the main summit. Whiteout conditions make it difficult to assess where we are, but we manage to find the highest point. Third times a charm!