Friday, September 28, 2007

Assiniboine

We tried Mt. Assiniboine (3615m) in 2005, but we were'nt prepared. JD and me set off from Mt. Shark trailhead early Friday morning on September long weekend. 26km hike in to Assiniboine Lodge. We rendezvous with our climbing gear, which we had flown in via Heli, then continue around Lake Magog and the Gmoser Highway up to the Hind Hut. Set off at 2 am ahead of a few guides/clients, but are caught within a couple hours. We follow in behind. Very steep climbing in crampons over mixed rock and ice. This is some of the toughest technical climbing we've done on an Alpine climb.

By noon we are on the summit! The way down is slow. We reverse our route, sometimes downclimbing, other times rapelling where its too steep. Finally we stumble back to the Hind Hut at 6 pm....16 hour day, but very worth it. One of the best climbs we've done so far.

Friday, June 8, 2007

Andromeda

With a great weather forecast I take a weekday off work and JD and i head off for Mt. Andromeda (3450m). We sleep in the car near the snow-coach parkinglot, and are off to a midnight start over rocky moraines. The wind is up a little, and we start to lose interst, but we reach the glacier and the base of our route, the Skyladder. After roping up and crossing the bergshrund, Jr. leads up a fairly steep snowslope. The sun comes out halfway up, and the wind drops to zero - a perfect morning for climbing!We reach a plateau and traverse along the top of a ridge to the summit. Views are stunning in all directions - the Columbia Icefields, Mt. Columbia, and countelss Rockies Peaks. Not a single soul around us for miles. We work back down in a circuit, climbing to the Athabasca-Andromeda Col. A few rapels take us down stee snow slopes, and back down the the glacier below. We are back at the car by 2 pm - 14 hr day.Very good day in the Rockies.

Monday, January 8, 2007

Masseys

Slept in the back of the car in Field friday night, up early and hiked along the railroad tracks to an icefall on Mount Stephen, Masseys Curtain (Grade IV). We climbed a diagonal ice-ramp to get to mid-hieghtm, then set up a toprope to practice.After we were comfortable, JD led up to the top, one vertical pitch followed by one lower angled section.

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Stanley

Here we are on Mt. Stanley for the second time. The first time around was during Game 6 of the SCF, which we didnt want to jinx by watching. We camped just below the glacier and got to the bottom of the icefall, but didnt have the energy to continue on. This time we try straight from the car, leaving at 1 am in pitch black.

By the early morning we are on the galcier and up to the bottom of the steep snow/ice wall (Kahl Route) leading straight up to the summit. JD leads off and i follow in the footsteps. The snow is in perfect condition for boot packing, which makes it less technical than if this were icy. Long long way up tho, we end up taking turns breaking trail. We reach the top and spend abotu 30 seconds taking photos before heading right back down the way we came.

Saturday, June 3, 2006

Denali

JD, Rob and I have arrived in Alaska, trying for the summit of Mt. McKinley (6192m), highest peak in North America. We get a briefing of our route - the West Butress - from the park Rangers in Talkeetna, the last one-horse town on the edge of the Alaskan frontier. We load up all our gear onto the small bush planes with large skiis fixed to the wheels. Its a 45 minute flight north into the Alaskan range. We fly low and cross what seems like very close to the tips of surrounding peaks before making a right turn in for a landing on the glacier. Everyone is roped up with harnesses. 3 weeks worth of food and supplies are required, so not only do we have 45 lb pack, we also tow sleds that are tied to our waists with additional 25-30 lbs. Some ski, others snowshoe, but for all its a real slog to say the least.

First camp is 8000ft, right on the glacier. We are early in the season so we have our pick of campsites, just flatten out some snow and throw down the tent. We build walls with giant blocks of snow to reduce the effects of the wind. Second camp is 11,000 ft, which we take 2 days to reach after a gear haul. Here we meet some new faces. Some ski guides from Montana, and well as a former marine and army recruit.14,000 ft is the next stop, and is as much a basecamp as any other. There are doctors tents, latrines, and weather reports. The next section is a very steep snow slope followed by a section of ice. These are are fixed ropes. One clips in to the rop ewith an ascenter (or in our case a sliding know) and crawls up the steep slope for about 5 or 6 rope lengths. The top of the fixed ropes brings us to the 16K Ridge, which is above the clouds and climbs up through mixed rock and snow. Camp at 17,600 is a cold and windy spot, so the idea is to hit a weather window, spend one night there, get up to the summit, then come back down as qucikly as possible. Our first attempt results in failure - we come back down after a very cold and windy night, and no sign in let-up of weather. On our second try the weather is much better, though Rob decides to stay behind. We get off to a scrambly start for the summit, and after an hour i am cooked. So Jr. and Shane continue up, Sean and I back to the tents 17k Camp. Waiting anxiously all day, Jr and Shane finally come back around nightfall. They made it! Sean and I will try again tomorow, weather permitting. With instructions from Jr as to the route, Sean and I set off at 9 am, first to leaver high camp. And the weather is perfect. Cold, but not a breath of wind. Up and up we go, past landmarks - a big rock here, a weather station there, before coming out in the sunshine. Around mid-day, we are on the summit! Highest point in North America. And what a view - not a cloud in the sky and a view for miles and miles. We get back to 17k camp before sunset and crash, eager to stumple back down lower the next morning. 2 days later we are all back at the airstrip, ready for our ride back home.

Wednesday, August 3, 2005

Trans Rockies Ride (Part 1)

JD is biking from Edmonton to Vancouver, camping along the way. I take a long weekend and join him for a few days in the middle. We meet up at a campground in Rocky Mountain House, where I leave my car. He's taken 2 days to get here from Edmonton. Tent, sleeping bag and food are packed into paniers on the back of the bike, and its a wobbly contraption with all the extra weight. The first day takes us along steadily - always at 20km/h - up or down, straight or twisty, wind or none. We spend 5 hours in the saddle and cover over 100km. We find a great campsite at a lake past Nordegg. The second day takes us into the wind and the start of the Rockies. We have a huge lunch at Saskatchewan River Crossing, then press on to a campsite past Chephren Lake. Another 100km + day, but the weather is perfect. The thrid day its up and over what will be the highest point in the trip - the Bow Summit. We are up and pedalling early, its best at this time of day to avoid the traffic. Gorgeous morning in the Rockies!
Back down the other side takes us to Field, and the end of my weekend. I leave JD to battle the Kicking-Horse Valley wind on his own, and bus it back to my car. One day i'll come back and finish the trip...

Friday, July 22, 2005

Hector (Summer)

Climbed Mt. Hector (3394m) last weekend. This was one of the first Alpine climbs in the Rockies where we have made the summit on our first try. Also one of the first we havent had to start in the middle of the night. 7 am start takes us from the Icefields Parkway up a riverbed and headwall to the upper valley. After a few hours and a granola bar breakfast we are on the glacier, which is low angled. Visibility is poor at times, but we just point in the direction of the summit.

Saturday, July 9, 2005

President

For the third time in 13 days we are trying for Mt. President (3225m). Each time we have slept in the Emerald Lake parking lot. The first attempt was in pouring rain. Just below the glacier we try up a steep gully, but falling rocks from a large cliff face overhead pour onto us, sending us running for cover. The second attempt, this time with helmets, and Big Jon is along. We gain the galcier this time, but in whiteout conditions we hear what sounds like an airplane passing overhead. Turns out to be an avalanche not far off our intended route, again caused by wet unstable conditions. Finally we are back up on the glacier for the third time, this time in stabler weather. We gain the President-Vice Presidednt col, then I follow JD up towards the main summit. Whiteout conditions make it difficult to assess where we are, but we manage to find the highest point. Third times a charm!

Friday, July 1, 2005

Athabasca

We enrolled in the snow and ice long weekend at the Columbia Icefileds with Yamnuska Adventures. Fearing a sleep-in for our guided summit attempt on Mt. Athabasca (3475m), we park and sleep right at the foot of the mountain. An ice axe banging on the window at 2am tells us we have indeed slept in. 10 minutes of utter panic and we are dressed and climbing up the route with the rest of the team. Our route is the North Ridge (Alpine Grade II), and under sunny skies we complete our first Alpine climb!

Friday, June 10, 2005

Rundle Traverse

We attempt a treverse along the summit ridge of Mt. Rundle from Canmore to Banff. We drop the bikes off in Banff, then park the car at the canmore end and head up the East End of Rundle with overnight and climbing gear. We camp on a ridge and enjoy a beautiful rockies sunset.
Day 2 is more eventful. After negotiating a littel rock sectiont hat involved our first-ever rope up, we make good progress to the highest point at 2900m. But heading back down we encounter a steep drop off of 5m or so. I decide to leave my pack and have JD throw it down once i navigate the steep downclimb. Bad idea. I whiff on the catch and the bag goes flying by over a cliff, never to be seen again. We continue down to look, but in vain. We finally arrive back at the Banff Springs Hotel exausted after a 15 hour day.

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Storm

JD and I rented touring skiis, boots and skins for the weekend and made for Storm Mountain (3118m). Started off from the car at 9am, up through thinning trees. Never used these things before, so the concept is new and we dont trust them. Soon enough we learn you can go up pretty much any slope. We continue up the base of a valley to reach an upper bowl. A few hundred meters switchbacking takes us as high as we can go on skis. We boot-pack the last couple-hundred meters of vertical to the summit.
Back to our skiis, we lock-down the bindings and make a few turns. its awkward at first, but we soon find a rythm. Its easier turning in the upper bowl in valley, but down where the trees get thicker its a big effort no to crash.
7 hrs up, 30 minutes down!

Monday, January 10, 2005

The Stone Sentinal

JD travelled to South America this past spring and visited Base Camp of Mt. Aconcagua (6962m), situated on the Chile-Argentina border. December brings us back to the Andes, to try for the top. This is a true expedition, we have packed all our own food, enough for 2 weeks. We learned our lessons on Kili about equipment, so this time we are ready - North Face Tent, -40 sleeping bags, double plastic boots and heavy down jackets. We take care of permits in Mendoza, then make our way to the outpost of Puente Del Inca (2200m), trailhead for Aconcagua. This area is a ski resort in the winter, so we spend a couple of days acclimatizing on some day hikes. Its a rocky desert in this area, no vegitation at all. We hire mules to carry most of our supplies, keeping our tent and sleeping bags for the 40 km journey into basecamp.Our first camp is Confluencia (3350m), named for the meeting point of two large glacial valleys. The next day, Christmas Day, we do a side hike up to to the base of the West Face of Aconcagua. Only the most elite mountaineers in the world have climbed the mountain via this route. The next day, we pack everything up and head for Plaza de Mulas...basecamp. Its a long day up desolate Horcones Valley, but we finally arrive at 4200m, exhausted. There are hundreds of climbers here from all around the world. A few days rest here get us used to the increased altitude. This is the highest mountain outside the Himalayas, so there are doctors here that check your blood pressure and O2 saturation levels. Here the water is ample, it can be collected from glaciar runoff. Up higher we will need to melt snow for drinking and cooking.

The first camp is Camp Canada at 4900m, which offers gorgeous views of the valley below. We carry a load of supplies here one day before moving the tent up here the next. The next camp is Nido De Condores, the condors nest, at 5400m. Its an extremely windy plateau with not much in the way of cover. We've been on the same schedule as a solo Swedish climber named Rob. We discuss strategy, read and melt snow. Jr. is drinking the water faster than i can melt it! A number of other teams try for the summit straight from this camp. We decide to give it a shot - load up with water and powerbars and head off from the tents at midnight. An hour later we are back in the tents, back to the drawing board. We decide to move up to one camp higher, Camp Berlin at 5900m. This is where most party's try for the summit. If means a tough carry and sleeping quite high, higher than the summit of Kilimanjaro, but the summit day is alot shorter. We get out of Camp Berlin in good time, the first team to leave camp. Its a crystal clear night, no clouds. Its cold (probably minus 10C) but no wind. We slowly work our way up, each moving at our own pace. JD is off ahead, Rob behind me. Up we get to a vantage point where you can see a long diagonal traverse up across a scree slope. JD's already crossed the traverse - he's moving fast. Following the traverse is a last steep section of scrambly rocks called the Canaleta. Half way up, I finally see JD, he's on the way down already! Almost there. Another hour and I reach the top, the view is tremendous, and not a cloud in the sky. Very little wind. For a few minutes, I'm alone as the highest man in South America. Yet at the top you're only half way there, still the matter of the long decent back to camp. Slowly down, now without the motivation of the summit. Back at Berlin, Jr. has dismantled the tent and continued on down. We pick up whats left and head down further. Back at Nido, JD has not set up the tent - still down he continues, so on we go. Same story at Canada, so all the way back down to basecamp we go, finally arriving just as the sun sets. All in all, a 16 hour day on the mountain. We are too tired to set up the tent, so we lay out our sleeping bags on the ground in one of the storage tents, and fall asleep. The next day, all the way back out the 40 long kms to Puente Del Inca. We've missed the mule train for the day, and we are not about to stay an extra night, so we hump everying out on our backs. We limp back to the trailhead pretty weathered, sunburned badly, a few pounds ligher, and exhausted. But thats it, the job is done!

Saturday, January 3, 2004

The Snows of Kilimanjaro

Our first big mountain experience! The Machame Route of Mt. Kilimanjaro, highest mountain in Africa at 5895m. We are a team of 10 - JD, Dr. JRP and myself, plus our local guide Paul, an assistant guide, 3 porters, 1 cook and 1 assistant cook. We've packed light - our Canadian Tire Spalding tent, some cheapo sleeping bags, and wind-breakers. Food will be provided, though we each have our favorite bars - Mesotech, Vector and Powerbar. Our porters carry our travel bags plus their own personal effects. We carry day packs only, with water and cameras. The first day takes us through the jungle, large trees and vine-covered slopes, to a campsite at 2200m, where the porters cook us a meal. We wake wearily on the second day and break camp, starting up now through broken trees and more rocky outcrops. We camp at 3200m, and start to feel the first effects of the altitude. Day 3 we plod on, up through a moonscape to a place called the Lava Tower at 4000m. Jr is definitely feeling the effects of the rapid height gain. The porters want to camp here and take us up the more direct Western Breach route, but we convince them to continue along the Machame route. The route continues back down to 3700m and a gorgeously situated camp. We can see the entire western wall of the mountain, with glaciers dropping from the summit down among the mists and low clouds. Very cold night, our sleeping bags arent nearly warm enough - we sleep in every stich of clothing we own. Early the next morning we head up the Barranco Wall, picking our way through one of the steeper sections of the route. We cross horizontally across the mountain to our last camp at 4500m. JD moving very slow, but moving. I throw up dinner, rushing from the tent to the edge of a cliff just in the nick of time. We are all definitely feeling the effects of the altutude now. Atfter maybe a few winks of sleep, we are up very early on summit day - midnight. The idea is to arrive on the summit for sunrise. We stumble out of the tent with headlamps and start our way up following our assistant guide. We arrive at Gilmans Point - the crater rim, still before sunrise. Windy and cold, we are delerious from the altitude. We stumble along the ridge till the summit sign comes into view - Highest Point in Africa! Still dark, but we can start to see the glaciers off in the distance, we are above evrything. The conical silouette of neighbouring Mt. Meru is off to the west. We take a few pictures, then begin the long road down retracing our steps. We stumple back to camp, taking in as many views as we can. Back to camp by 11 am and straigh into a comoatose sleep for a couple of hours. But we are tired and hungry and dirty. We decide to go all the way down right away, bypassing the last camp on the way down. Arrive back in Moshi, exhausted. We give the porters our tents and gaitors...wont be needing those anymore on this trip. Off to the beach in Zanzibar!