Stanley

Here we are on Mt. Stanley for the second time. The first time around was during Game 6 of the SCF, which we didnt want to jinx by watching. We camped just below the glacier and got to the bottom of the icefall, but didnt have the energy to continue on. This time we try straight from the car, leaving at 1 am in pitch black.

By the early morning we are on the galcier and up to the bottom of the steep snow/ice wall (Kahl Route) leading straight up to the summit. JD leads off and i follow in the footsteps. The snow is in perfect condition for boot packing, which makes it less technical than if this were icy. Long long way up tho, we end up taking turns breaking trail. We reach the top and spend abotu 30 seconds taking photos before heading right back down the way we came.

Denali

JD, Rob and I have arrived in Alaska, trying for the summit of Mt. McKinley (6192m), highest peak in North America. We get a briefing of our route - the West Butress - from the park Rangers in Talkeetna, the last one-horse town on the edge of the Alaskan frontier. We load up all our gear onto the small bush planes with large skiis fixed to the wheels. Its a 45 minute flight north into the Alaskan range. We fly low and cross what seems like very close to the tips of surrounding peaks before making a right turn in for a landing on the glacier. Everyone is roped up with harnesses. 3 weeks worth of food and supplies are required, so not only do we have 45 lb pack, we also tow sleds that are tied to our waists with additional 25-30 lbs. Some ski, others snowshoe, but for all its a real slog to say the least.

First camp is 8000ft, right on the glacier. We are early in the season so we have our pick of campsites, just flatten out some snow and throw down the tent. We build walls with giant blocks of snow to reduce the effects of the wind. Second camp is 11,000 ft, which we take 2 days to reach after a gear haul. Here we meet some new faces. Some ski guides from Montana, and well as a former marine and army recruit.14,000 ft is the next stop, and is as much a basecamp as any other. There are doctors tents, latrines, and weather reports. The next section is a very steep snow slope followed by a section of ice. These are are fixed ropes. One clips in to the rop ewith an ascenter (or in our case a sliding know) and crawls up the steep slope for about 5 or 6 rope lengths. The top of the fixed ropes brings us to the 16K Ridge, which is above the clouds and climbs up through mixed rock and snow. Camp at 17,600 is a cold and windy spot, so the idea is to hit a weather window, spend one night there, get up to the summit, then come back down as qucikly as possible. Our first attempt results in failure - we come back down after a very cold and windy night, and no sign in let-up of weather. On our second try the weather is much better, though Rob decides to stay behind. We get off to a scrambly start for the summit, and after an hour i am cooked. So Jr. and Shane continue up, Sean and I back to the tents 17k Camp. Waiting anxiously all day, Jr and Shane finally come back around nightfall. They made it! Sean and I will try again tomorow, weather permitting. With instructions from Jr as to the route, Sean and I set off at 9 am, first to leaver high camp. And the weather is perfect. Cold, but not a breath of wind. Up and up we go, past landmarks - a big rock here, a weather station there, before coming out in the sunshine. Around mid-day, we are on the summit! Highest point in North America. And what a view - not a cloud in the sky and a view for miles and miles. We get back to 17k camp before sunset and crash, eager to stumple back down lower the next morning. 2 days later we are all back at the airstrip, ready for our ride back home.