Hector (Summer)

Climbed Mt. Hector (3394m) last weekend. This was one of the first Alpine climbs in the Rockies where we have made the summit on our first try. Also one of the first we havent had to start in the middle of the night. 7 am start takes us from the Icefields Parkway up a riverbed and headwall to the upper valley. After a few hours and a granola bar breakfast we are on the glacier, which is low angled. Visibility is poor at times, but we just point in the direction of the summit.

President

For the third time in 13 days we are trying for Mt. President (3225m). Each time we have slept in the Emerald Lake parking lot. The first attempt was in pouring rain. Just below the glacier we try up a steep gully, but falling rocks from a large cliff face overhead pour onto us, sending us running for cover. The second attempt, this time with helmets, and Big Jon is along. We gain the galcier this time, but in whiteout conditions we hear what sounds like an airplane passing overhead. Turns out to be an avalanche not far off our intended route, again caused by wet unstable conditions. Finally we are back up on the glacier for the third time, this time in stabler weather. We gain the President-Vice Presidednt col, then I follow JD up towards the main summit. Whiteout conditions make it difficult to assess where we are, but we manage to find the highest point. Third times a charm!

Athabasca

We enrolled in the snow and ice long weekend at the Columbia Icefileds with Yamnuska Adventures. Fearing a sleep-in for our guided summit attempt on Mt. Athabasca (3475m), we park and sleep right at the foot of the mountain. An ice axe banging on the window at 2am tells us we have indeed slept in. 10 minutes of utter panic and we are dressed and climbing up the route with the rest of the team. Our route is the North Ridge (Alpine Grade II), and under sunny skies we complete our first Alpine climb!