Wednesday, August 3, 2005

Trans Rockies Ride (Part 1)

JD is biking from Edmonton to Vancouver, camping along the way. I take a long weekend and join him for a few days in the middle. We meet up at a campground in Rocky Mountain House, where I leave my car. He's taken 2 days to get here from Edmonton. Tent, sleeping bag and food are packed into paniers on the back of the bike, and its a wobbly contraption with all the extra weight. The first day takes us along steadily - always at 20km/h - up or down, straight or twisty, wind or none. We spend 5 hours in the saddle and cover over 100km. We find a great campsite at a lake past Nordegg. The second day takes us into the wind and the start of the Rockies. We have a huge lunch at Saskatchewan River Crossing, then press on to a campsite past Chephren Lake. Another 100km + day, but the weather is perfect. The thrid day its up and over what will be the highest point in the trip - the Bow Summit. We are up and pedalling early, its best at this time of day to avoid the traffic. Gorgeous morning in the Rockies!
Back down the other side takes us to Field, and the end of my weekend. I leave JD to battle the Kicking-Horse Valley wind on his own, and bus it back to my car. One day i'll come back and finish the trip...

Friday, July 22, 2005

Hector (Summer)

Climbed Mt. Hector (3394m) last weekend. This was one of the first Alpine climbs in the Rockies where we have made the summit on our first try. Also one of the first we havent had to start in the middle of the night. 7 am start takes us from the Icefields Parkway up a riverbed and headwall to the upper valley. After a few hours and a granola bar breakfast we are on the glacier, which is low angled. Visibility is poor at times, but we just point in the direction of the summit.

Saturday, July 9, 2005

President

For the third time in 13 days we are trying for Mt. President (3225m). Each time we have slept in the Emerald Lake parking lot. The first attempt was in pouring rain. Just below the glacier we try up a steep gully, but falling rocks from a large cliff face overhead pour onto us, sending us running for cover. The second attempt, this time with helmets, and Big Jon is along. We gain the galcier this time, but in whiteout conditions we hear what sounds like an airplane passing overhead. Turns out to be an avalanche not far off our intended route, again caused by wet unstable conditions. Finally we are back up on the glacier for the third time, this time in stabler weather. We gain the President-Vice Presidednt col, then I follow JD up towards the main summit. Whiteout conditions make it difficult to assess where we are, but we manage to find the highest point. Third times a charm!

Friday, July 1, 2005

Athabasca

We enrolled in the snow and ice long weekend at the Columbia Icefileds with Yamnuska Adventures. Fearing a sleep-in for our guided summit attempt on Mt. Athabasca (3475m), we park and sleep right at the foot of the mountain. An ice axe banging on the window at 2am tells us we have indeed slept in. 10 minutes of utter panic and we are dressed and climbing up the route with the rest of the team. Our route is the North Ridge (Alpine Grade II), and under sunny skies we complete our first Alpine climb!

Friday, June 10, 2005

Rundle Traverse

We attempt a treverse along the summit ridge of Mt. Rundle from Canmore to Banff. We drop the bikes off in Banff, then park the car at the canmore end and head up the East End of Rundle with overnight and climbing gear. We camp on a ridge and enjoy a beautiful rockies sunset.
Day 2 is more eventful. After negotiating a littel rock sectiont hat involved our first-ever rope up, we make good progress to the highest point at 2900m. But heading back down we encounter a steep drop off of 5m or so. I decide to leave my pack and have JD throw it down once i navigate the steep downclimb. Bad idea. I whiff on the catch and the bag goes flying by over a cliff, never to be seen again. We continue down to look, but in vain. We finally arrive back at the Banff Springs Hotel exausted after a 15 hour day.

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Storm

JD and I rented touring skiis, boots and skins for the weekend and made for Storm Mountain (3118m). Started off from the car at 9am, up through thinning trees. Never used these things before, so the concept is new and we dont trust them. Soon enough we learn you can go up pretty much any slope. We continue up the base of a valley to reach an upper bowl. A few hundred meters switchbacking takes us as high as we can go on skis. We boot-pack the last couple-hundred meters of vertical to the summit.
Back to our skiis, we lock-down the bindings and make a few turns. its awkward at first, but we soon find a rythm. Its easier turning in the upper bowl in valley, but down where the trees get thicker its a big effort no to crash.
7 hrs up, 30 minutes down!

Monday, January 10, 2005

The Stone Sentinal

JD travelled to South America this past spring and visited Base Camp of Mt. Aconcagua (6962m), situated on the Chile-Argentina border. December brings us back to the Andes, to try for the top. This is a true expedition, we have packed all our own food, enough for 2 weeks. We learned our lessons on Kili about equipment, so this time we are ready - North Face Tent, -40 sleeping bags, double plastic boots and heavy down jackets. We take care of permits in Mendoza, then make our way to the outpost of Puente Del Inca (2200m), trailhead for Aconcagua. This area is a ski resort in the winter, so we spend a couple of days acclimatizing on some day hikes. Its a rocky desert in this area, no vegitation at all. We hire mules to carry most of our supplies, keeping our tent and sleeping bags for the 40 km journey into basecamp.Our first camp is Confluencia (3350m), named for the meeting point of two large glacial valleys. The next day, Christmas Day, we do a side hike up to to the base of the West Face of Aconcagua. Only the most elite mountaineers in the world have climbed the mountain via this route. The next day, we pack everything up and head for Plaza de Mulas...basecamp. Its a long day up desolate Horcones Valley, but we finally arrive at 4200m, exhausted. There are hundreds of climbers here from all around the world. A few days rest here get us used to the increased altitude. This is the highest mountain outside the Himalayas, so there are doctors here that check your blood pressure and O2 saturation levels. Here the water is ample, it can be collected from glaciar runoff. Up higher we will need to melt snow for drinking and cooking.

The first camp is Camp Canada at 4900m, which offers gorgeous views of the valley below. We carry a load of supplies here one day before moving the tent up here the next. The next camp is Nido De Condores, the condors nest, at 5400m. Its an extremely windy plateau with not much in the way of cover. We've been on the same schedule as a solo Swedish climber named Rob. We discuss strategy, read and melt snow. Jr. is drinking the water faster than i can melt it! A number of other teams try for the summit straight from this camp. We decide to give it a shot - load up with water and powerbars and head off from the tents at midnight. An hour later we are back in the tents, back to the drawing board. We decide to move up to one camp higher, Camp Berlin at 5900m. This is where most party's try for the summit. If means a tough carry and sleeping quite high, higher than the summit of Kilimanjaro, but the summit day is alot shorter. We get out of Camp Berlin in good time, the first team to leave camp. Its a crystal clear night, no clouds. Its cold (probably minus 10C) but no wind. We slowly work our way up, each moving at our own pace. JD is off ahead, Rob behind me. Up we get to a vantage point where you can see a long diagonal traverse up across a scree slope. JD's already crossed the traverse - he's moving fast. Following the traverse is a last steep section of scrambly rocks called the Canaleta. Half way up, I finally see JD, he's on the way down already! Almost there. Another hour and I reach the top, the view is tremendous, and not a cloud in the sky. Very little wind. For a few minutes, I'm alone as the highest man in South America. Yet at the top you're only half way there, still the matter of the long decent back to camp. Slowly down, now without the motivation of the summit. Back at Berlin, Jr. has dismantled the tent and continued on down. We pick up whats left and head down further. Back at Nido, JD has not set up the tent - still down he continues, so on we go. Same story at Canada, so all the way back down to basecamp we go, finally arriving just as the sun sets. All in all, a 16 hour day on the mountain. We are too tired to set up the tent, so we lay out our sleeping bags on the ground in one of the storage tents, and fall asleep. The next day, all the way back out the 40 long kms to Puente Del Inca. We've missed the mule train for the day, and we are not about to stay an extra night, so we hump everying out on our backs. We limp back to the trailhead pretty weathered, sunburned badly, a few pounds ligher, and exhausted. But thats it, the job is done!